Attaching coat lining

[Tengokujin]

Help me ladies!

I made my winter coat this year. Nice weight wool with a satin lining. I am happy with that.

The problem is that I forgot to "bag in" the lining before I attached the collar and did the lapels. I was not about to take the neckline out because I feel like if it goes together right don't mess with that. So I ended up being able to machine sew the lining in only at the neck. At the sleeves and hem, I hand stitched it.

You know what is happening now. The stitching just isn't holding. The lining pulled free so quickly.

Any ideas to attach the lining at sleeves and hem thatdon't show onthe outside and will be more sturdy????

[Iarwain]

Is this a dressy coat? With dressy coats you can hem the lining about an inch shorter than the outer fabric and let it hang free other than a few tacks at the side seams and mid-back. The cuffs need to be attached, though. Can you do smaller, closer hand stitches, and shorter lengths of thread? Take vertical stitches close together. Even if some of the stitches go all the way through the wool they won't be as noticeable if they are vertical. Does that help? How exactly is it pulling out? Is the hand sewing thread breaking or the satin unraveling at the edge? Are the stitches pulling out of the wool because they're not deep enough? Knowing exactly what's going on would help with troubleshooting.

[Tengokujin]

Is this a dressy coat? With dressy coats you can hem the lining about an inch shorter than the outer fabric and let it hang free other than a few tacks at the side seams and mid-back. The cuffs need to be attached, though. Can you do smaller, closer hand stitches, and shorter lengths of thread? Take vertical stitches close together. Even if some of the stitches go all the way through the wool they won't be as noticeable if they are vertical. Does that help? How exactly is it pulling out? Is the hand sewing thread breaking or the satin unraveling at the edge? Are the stitches pulling out of the wool because they're not deep enough? Knowing exactly what's going on would help with troubleshooting.


Yes, it's a dressy coat. The problem is the stitching in the lining material. Seems a combo of thread breakage/satin unravelling.

I am thinking that if I encase the lining edge with bias tape, and then hand stitch THAT to the coat I might create a stronger edge..

Hanging free is an option too :scratch

The sleeves aren't as bad as the hem lining in back.

Maybe more tacking down along other seams too.

More ideas now??

[Iarwain]

If the lining has enough excess in the cut of it you could narrowly hem just the lining - folding it twice to encase the raw edge before sewing it down to the outer fabric. That would give extra layers to stitch through as well as deal with the unraveling problem. I would definitely do that at the bottom edge just make sure your raw edge is covered. Leaving it to hang free with tacking at the seams is what is usually done with ready-made coats because the wool and the satin hang differently and it tends to bunch funny if sewed together.

Another alternative to narrowly hemming is to use iron-on hem tape. It'd be fast and you wouldn't have to turn under quite as much but I'm not sure how well that will hold up in the long run.

If that won't work I think the bias tape is your best bet. Satin can be so frustrating to work with because it's so ravel-ly, not to mention the slippery factor. Lots of pinning!

Good luck! I hope it turns out well. I made myself a lovely satin lined wool cape a long time ago and I wore it for years, I loved it so much. Turning out a big garment project like that gives you such a sense of accomplishment, doesn't it?